feast-making – Page 4

Gnaw-worthy steaks…

April 18, 2015 by Convivial Boar 1 Comment

two-inch thick porterhouse with potato cooking in coals

Nothing conjures the primal nature of creating with fire like the sizzling aromas of grilling a thick, meaty steak —now there’s a candle scent the Boar could endorse.

Creating a great steak is mostly about getting out the way and letting the natural flavors of the meat shine. The art is selecting the best quality steak and doing as little as possible to it (sounds like a plan of leisure, but often proves harder than it seems).

Before we discuss the plan and techniques for creating a great steak, let’s salivate a bit over what we are looking for in a steak.

Here’s my order:

For my steak this evening, I desire a caramelized layer of salt and spice encrusting the delicate, sensually-marbled and sweet interior brimming with ample juices to run down my chinny-chin-chin.

Do you want something different, my friend, or shall I order a few like that?

Get to know your butcher…

The best way to select a quality steak is to discuss it with your butcher —and this probably means going to a store without self-check lines or an aisle of Bermuda shorts. Your butcher can help you understand the different cuts, serving size, and quality of the steaks. Here are some of my thoughts:

1. For grilling, I like thick cuts (one-and-a-half to two inches thick). This allows you to caramelize the outside without overcooking the inside.

2. I prefer bone-in cuts such as a bone-in ribeye, bone-in filet, or porterhouse. The bone helps guard against overcooking, adds to the presentation, and allows for gnawing…

3. Look for a steak that has good marbling of fat throughout. As the fat melts during cooking it flavors the meat and keeps it from drying out.

new york strip steak with sautéed carrots and green beans

Let your steak warm a bit…

Before seasoning and grilling your steak, let it sit a spell and warm to room temperature —usually thirty minutes to an hour works (good time for a cocktail or two). Allowing the steak to warm results in better caramelization as cold meat does not brown very well. Avoid salting the steak until just before cooking because it will dry it out.

Start your fire…

For steaks, setting up your grill for direct heat works best. This means having the cooking grate directly over the coals. Adding more hot coals to one area in your grill creates a searing zone —which helps with the caramelized crust. The searing zone should be very hot and the rest of the grill should be a medium zone. For a refresher on how to set up the fire and when it is ready to cook click here.

Season boldly…

Just before grilling is the time to add the salt and spice. Remember that you are only seasoning the outside of the steak so be bold and generous. This is one of the areas where I think getting out of the way is important. Instead of using the whole spice cabinet, my preference is to coat the steak with olive oil, fresh-ground black pepper, and kosher salt (lots of pepper and salt, I can tell what you have in mind is not enough, be bold, my friend).

To the grill…

Start by searing the steaks on the hotter section of the grill (no more than two minutes per side). Note: when turning the steaks use tongs instead of a fork as we do not want any extra juices escaping.

Once the steaks are seared move them to the medium zone. Allow the steaks to cook until they nearly reach your desired doneness (for me, that’s pretty rare so depending on thickness, I rarely cook mine for more than three or four minutes per side). The reason I say “nearly” to your desired doneness is because the steak will continue cooking for a few minutes after you take it off the grill.

You can check the temperature by using a meat thermometer or cutting into the steak (but both methods result in a loss of juices) or you can use the touch test (google “how to tell if a steak is done by touching it” for more information).

Butter makes everything better…

onion, garlic, and butter sauce with bone-in-ribeye steaks and filets

One of my favorite tricks is to sauté a pan full of sliced onions and garlic in butter on the grill with the steaks (I usually put them on the grill before the steak). I then spoon butter from the pan on the steaks during the cooking (and quite a bit just as I take the steaks off the grill), and the onion and garlic makes for a nice accompaniment to the steak.

Let it rest…

To help the juices settle, allow your steaks to rest for ten to fifteen minutes after you take them off the grill. I like to loosely tent them with foil while they rest.

To serve, heap some more butter on top of the steak along with the sautéed onions and garlic. To enjoy, start dignified with knife and fork, but end by animalistically gnawing the bone.

I’m craving a steak, my friend.

Grill talk…

April 7, 2015 by Convivial Boar 4 Comments

It’s time to talk grills! And if you have ever seen my backyard (and much to one neighbor’s chagrin, my front porch), you know that I possess a plethora of grills. Owning a variety of types, shapes, and sizes of grills seems natural to me, but apparently, not to everyone.

Fairly often,I’m invited to grill at a friend’s house and the dialogue goes like this:

Me: “Sure, I would love to fire up one of your grills and create a fiery feast of the moment.”

Friend: “Yeh, we were kind of thinking of something simple, like hot dogs.”

Me: “Think again, my friend. Tell me about your grills?”

Friend: “I have a grill —no “s””

Me: “My poor, dear friend, tell me about your one, lonely grill.”

Sadly, the growth of my plethora has been stunted in recent years due to Wife-of-the-Boar’s moratorium against any new acquisitions —but high level negotiations are underway to bring an end to that nonsense (alas, this is fragile diplomacy —the use of that one word will probably stymie progress a bit). Luckily, I discovered a loophole in the moratorium allowing new grills to be purchased in the name of Children-of-the-Boar —that’s my interpretation, anyway.

Son-of-Convivial Boar’s newly acquired fire pit grill

In preparation for the imminent lifting of the moratorium (see how optimistic I can be), here is the Convivial Boar’s Guide to Grills:

Grills matter, but they are not everything

Fantastic creations of the moment can be orchestrated with just a few rocks and a primitive grate to hold the food. Remember, the only essential item is the fire, and in keeping with the words of Thoreau —simple is better. So, don’t let the absence of the latest and greatest grill get in the way of creating.

The fuel defines the grill

The three categories of grills are charcoal, wood, and gas. Here are some of my thoughts about the difference in these grills:

Gas grills are a convenient, albeit less-flavorful, form of grilling. In truth, they are not much different from a gas cook range. Because you are cooking over an active flame, flare-ups are a challenge (look for a model that places a metal shield over the flames, sometimes given a cute name like flavor bars). The intensity of the heat is controlled by adjusting the amount of gas being fed to the fire. Wood chips can be used to add a hint of smoky flavor. Because gas grills involve less ceremony and diminished festive flair, I relegate the use of them to instances where nothing else is available or the time demands are tight —which is surprisingly often, even for a boar of leisurely tendencies.

Charcoal grills offer the romance of real fire in a controlled environment. The basic construction includes a grate for the charcoal, a rack for the food and maybe a lid. The heat is controlled by how you build the fire and how far you place the food from the fire (or I should say coals). In selecting a charcoal grill, pay attention to the materials from which it is constructed —thicker walled materials hold the heat better. To harness the power of your fire, you need airflow controls—look for a grill with multiple vents.

My go-to charcoal grill is the Portable Kitchen made in Little Rock, Arkansas. The design is simple and the appearance is classically, elegant. It is constructed of cast aluminum which provides excellent insulation but is also light. For airflow control, it has two vents on bottom and two on top—perfect for taming the wildest of feast-making fires. To learn more click here.

portable kitchen in action

For the truly adventurous feast-maker, a grill designed for burning wood logs is a fun, festive option. These grills can be as simple as a fire pit with a grate, or involve adjustable racks and rotisseries. Note: once the moratorium is fully lifted, the Boar will be in the market for a large Argentine-style, wood-burning grill with a fully adjustable cooking grate –this would make a great gift for Wife-of-Boar, don’t you think?

The shape and size of the grill are important —and should be matched for your particular creation

If items are too crowded, they will not cook correctly. Also, using too large a grill for small feasts does not make efficient use of your fuel. I find that an oblong or rectangular shape provides more options and flexibility for feast-making than grills that are round. Chiefly, this is because it is easier to establish heat zones on a rectangular grill —we will be discussing the importance of zones in a later post.

Most importantly, get to know your grill (or hopefully, grills)

Nothing beats a well-understood grill —except maybe one about to be unboxed. Fire up your grill early and often. Give yourself time to explore how it works without the pressure of hungry feasters peering over you.

Let’s talk grill “s”, my friend.

Let’s start the fire…

March 25, 2015 by Convivial Boar Leave a Comment

young feast-maker starts his fire

One of my favorite moments is the starting of a feast-making fire: a moment sparking with anticipation, glowing with energy and radiating with romance. Who wouldn’t cherish such a moment?

Sadly, I have witnessed many “grill master” apron-clad, digital-thermometer-fork wielding souls miss the moment. For them all fires seem the same. But, like a well-storied feast, a feast-making fire is unique –complete with a beginning, a middle, and an end.

Understanding the story of your feast-making fire is the foundation of grilling and creating with fire…

Sparking Anticipation

Like a theatre curtain rising, the lighting of the fire signals the beginning of feast-making festivities. Often my feast invitations will refer to the lighting of the fire as the start of the feast —as in, “I plan to light the fire around four o’clock, join us for the ceremony…” Because I do not adhere to any rigid rules about when creations will be presented, the starting of the fire is really the only available reference point (and unlike other less predictable aspects of feast-making the starting of the fire is in your control).

Fires begin small. Feast-making fires should be started with small sticks, newspaper, fire-starter sticks and other small combustible items. I do not use (or recommend) starting a feast-making fire with lighter fluid —first, the immediate intensity deprives us of the anticipation of watching the fire mature naturally and second, the lighter fluid fumes linger and often mar our creations with a chemical residue.

fire starter sticks

What you burn matters. Feast-making fires should be made of natural, hardwood. Oak, hickory, mesquite, pecan, peach, cherry, and apple are some of my favorites. I often combine two or three different woods such as oak, pecan, and cherry for an aromatic feast-making fire. Anything in the pine family should be avoided as the smoke is too strong for cooking and mesquite should only be used for short cooking times.

lump charcoal

If using charcoal, use a natural lump charcoal instead of the processed briquettes. Lump charcoal burns hotter and more naturally than the more processed variety. Using a chimney charcoal starter helps the charcoal burn evenly.

One of the reasons why creating with fire holds such allure for feast-makers is that it presents unique flavor opportunities. Chief among these opportunities is the smoke from the wood or charcoal. Let’s call this Creating-with-Fire Flavor Opportunity #1. The smoke adds a distinct flavor to your creations, so get creative and play around with some combinations of wood and charcoal.

Glowing Energy

glowing embers of lump charcoal

Let the fire sit a spell. Creating with fire is a bit of misnomer as we are really creating over the hot coals of the fire —not the actual flames. Allow the fire to rage until it dies down and glows with energy. That’s when it is ready for creations. Attempting to create over a still-raging fire results in creations featuring a burnt crusty exterior with a raw interior, all seasoned with the singed hair of the feast-maker —sounds delectable doesn’t it, my friend.

Of course, for a fire to properly mature, you need beer —something with character and seasoned with that rarest of all ingredients, flavor. If you happen to be in Central Arkansas, I suggest filling your growler with a brew from one of our local breweries —like the Amadeus Vienna Lager from Stone’s Throw Brewing. Believe me, my friend, with a mug of this lager you will not rush your fire.

Radiating Romance

Spend some time with your fire. Learn its hot spots, and let your creations dance between the zones. Every fire has zones where the heat is more intense. Use those areas for searing and caramelizing your creations. Then move your creations to the less intense areas to finish. You can purposefully create these zones by distributing more of the hotter coals in a particular location.

In later posts, we will discuss different types of grills, learn techniques for creating with fire, and salivate over particular creations —but, by far, the most important thing about creating with fire is understanding your fire. Indeed, I have been known to host feasts where all I did was create the fire and invite the feasters to prepare their own creations —and my, my, how the compliments flow from feasters satiated with their own creations.

Let’s start some fires, my friend.

indulging in spontaneous comfort…

March 8, 2015 by Convivial Boar 2 Comments

chicken and roasted potato pie

Our last post waxed philosophically about the upcoming grilling season and foreshadowed upcoming posts about creating with fire. But then two things happened to take us off path for a short detour.

First, winter will not relent. Far from ushering out the ice and snow, the beginning of March brought a fresh batch. Alas, instead of glowing with the embers of a feast-making fire, the grill shivers under another blanket of ice (prompting me to yell a warning to those within range “watch out for the grill, it’s cold”). And when folks didn’t find it humorous (or even act like they understood), I knew, we need more broth aromatherapy.

Second, at a recent dinner, Daughter-of-Boar announced that she had decided to be more spontaneous (a spontaneous proclamation of deliberate spontaneity). Her declaration made me ponder the power of spontaneity in a particular moment and the importance of being flexible with plans.

So, the planned posts on grilling will have to wait as we are in need of a spontaneous round of indulgent, comfort food…

Chicken and Roasted Potato Pie

(think chicken pot pie but without all of the vegetables that your kids push aside)

Main Ingredients:

Pie crust (see links below)
Chicken breast meat (cubed)
Potatoes (roasted)
Onion (diced)
Chicken broth

Making the crust:

pie dough patted into disks ready to be refrigerated

Any savory (as opposed to sweet) pie crust will work. I tend to like the ones with lots of butter and buttermilk, like the one found here.

For the broth and chicken, I followed the same plan as I did for the cornbread dressing (for a refresher click “here”).

roasted yukon gold potatoes with rosemary, truffle and salt

I peeled the potatoes and sliced them in half, lengthwise. Then I coated them with olive oil and seasoned them with a truffle & salt mixture (but any coarse salt will work). I roasted the potatoes at 350 degrees for about 35 minutes with fresh sprigs of rosemary (preparing each ingredient as though it will be the star of your feast, makes for a very tasty pie).

To make the sauce, sauté the diced onion in butter until soft (about ten to fifteen minutes). Add flour (I used about three tablespoons) and cook for a few minutes to brown the flour. Ladle broth in gradually, whisking the mixture as you add the broth to keep it smooth. Continue adding broth until the sauce reaches your desired thickness (note that as it cooks it will continue to thicken so you may have to add broth along the way). Cook sauce for at least fifteen minutes.

To prepare the chicken for the pie, chop or shred it into bite-sized pieces. The roasted potatoes need to be diced or sliced into discs (like you would do for scallop potatoes).

Roll out the pie crust for the bottom of your pan. Grease or butter the pan. Fit the bottom crust into the pan.

Add the sliced, roasted potatoes on top of the bottom crust. Pour about half of your sauce over the potatoes. Layer the shredded chicken next and then add the remaining sauce on top.

Roll out the top crust and fit it over the pie, pinching the edges to join the top and bottom crusts. With a sharp knife, make a few slits in the center of the top crust to allow steam to escape.

Brush the top crust with egg white and bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. Then reduce the temperature to 375 degrees and continue baking for another 15 minutes or until it reaches your desired brownness (note, you can add another glaze of egg white in the last 10 to 15 minutes to enhance the color of the crust).

Indulge in a little spontaneous comfort, my friend.

Thoreau on Grilling…

March 1, 2015 by Convivial Boar Leave a Comment

Winter is lingering like a guest staying upon an expired welcome. The soft blanket of snow, that once gently covered the landscape, is now dingy and tattered. We must look within for inspiration and strength to endure the final harsh breaths of Old Man Winter. We can choose to see the vestiges of a departing winter or the coming of a fruitful spring.

As is often the case, Thoreau says it best, “It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see.” The Boar looks upon the ugliness of an aging winter but sees the coming birth of farmer’s markets brimming with fruits and vegetables of the season and the start of the most cherished time of the year —grilling season.

grilled Mexican feast of chicken and shrimp fajitas and spanish rice

grilled Mexican feast of fajitas and spanish rice

In upcoming posts, we are going to cook with fire. We will discuss equipment, techniques, and creations —but today a bit of grilling-philosophy.

I’m often asked “where did you learn to grill?” And followed up with something like, “is there a particular book or author that you would recommend to me for learning about grilling?” And, of course, there are entire aisles of big-box book stores touting such titles as “Grilling for Dummies,” “101 Grilling Secrets,” “The Diary of a Confessed Grill Offender”…you get the picture.

But since the question is posed to me, we can either conclude that the questioner does not know me or that they are looking for something other than the directions to that aisle. Let’s go with the latter, my friend.

We will begin our discussions of grilling with Thoreau —I see a new title coming to that aisle, “The Grill at Walden Pond.” All kidding aside, I would rather sit alone on a pumpkin than be crowded on a velvet cushion in that aisle —and I have a hunch Thoreau would feel likewise.

grilled chicken and sweet corn

Here are some things that I believe Thoreau would say about grilling…

“Most grillers create dishes of quiet desperation and hang up their tongs with the song still in them.”

One belief that I hold with respect to mankind is that most of us want to cook with fire —and not just the bland and the processed but real creations of finesse and flare. But sadly, many of our grilling brethren are downtrodden and beholden to a menu of suffocating limitations. Yet in their hearts, a song of vibrant flavors and unique creations is written that goes unsung. Let’s hear that song, my friend.

“There are a thousand grillers hacking at the branches to every one striking at the root”

Put down the lighter fluid, let’s start our fire this grilling season with a flame of understanding. In our posts, we will explore the science of fire and how to deliberately focus it upon our creations.

grilled filet mignon and pineapple

“I went to the grill because I wished to create deliberately…”

I once had a friend whose idea of grilling was to douse some processed briquettes in fuel, set them on fire, dump a package of a meat-like substance on the grate, and then abandon his grill to consume a pale near-tasteless substance known as “light beer” until the smell of burning preservatives filled the air. I hope you never have to suffer such a disturbing scene.

Grilling is not a passive endeavor. The musical creations that exist in your heart require deliberate action. Focused preparations are required, and you must dance closely with the fire as you create.

Not to be misunderstood, I do not recommend grilling without beer, but it should be a coordinated part of your dance with the fire. I suggest a ceremonial drink or two in celebration of your feast-making fire and then a sip or two in the moments between the songs of your creations —and for goodness sake, choose a beer with depth and flavor, for I have a working theory that the flavors of feast-maker’s beer are reflected in his creations.

“If you have created your feasts in the air, your creations need not be lost; that is where they should be. Now put the foundations under them.”

If you can think and dream, you can create. Prepare your creations in the air, and then figure out the mechanics. Inspiration is key. Our world is full of checklists and how-to guides (remember that book store aisle), what you need is a vision.

grilled vegetables of the season

“All good things are wild and free.”

What you put on the grill matters. Break away from the cartoon flames of grill-marked packages labeled “great for grilling” and move to fresh vegetables and fruits of the season and recognizable meats —wild game, for instance. Your creations will be enhanced by a multiplier of your appreciation for the ingredients.

“Our creations are frittered away by detail. Simplify, simplify.”

Focus on the essential and lose all else. Many a creation suffers because of needless detail. Cooking with fire is a primitive and simplistic process —don’t make it otherwise. Focus on displaying the flavors of your wild and free ingredients and let everything else fade away.

Season your grill with a dash of Thoreau, my friend.

dressing for the season…

February 22, 2015 by Convivial Boar Leave a Comment

During the waning, frigid days of February, the Boar (and those around him) crave comfort—a crackling fire, soft jazz music, a good book, spirited libation, and the aromatherapy of broth. Nothing soothes and relaxes quite like the wafting aromas of homemade broth. An afternoon of broth treatment can restore flavor to the most foul of households. And broth gives life to so many indulgent comfort foods —like chicken and dressing.

chicken and cornbread dressing topped with rosemary and sage infused gravy

Soups and broths are probably as old as the history of cooking, and while the preparation is simple, the ingredients and variations are endless. Here is the Boar’s late February broth aromatherapy formula:

Chicken Broth

Ingredients:

Chicken pieces (boney pieces work the best, but if you are creating something like the dressing discussed below you can also cook the chicken to be used in the dish as well)
Onion (one or two cut into wedges)
Celery (two or three stalks cut into large pieces)
Carrots (two or three cut into thirds)
Garlic (two or three cloves whole)
Citrus (lemon, orange, or clementine cut in half)
Fresh Herbs (rosemary, thyme, oregano, bay leaves, and sage are some of my favorites)
Kosher Salt
Fresh ground black pepper

Combine all of the ingredients in a large stock pot and add enough water to cover. Bring the stock to a boil and then reduce to a low simmer for as many hours as your household requires to restore its flavor. I like to simmer my broths uncovered to allow the flavors to concentrate more during the simmering —more water can be added if needed.

With the family mood restored, it is time for some indulgent comfort food. Might I suggest ladling a bit of rosemary and sage infused gravy on a heaping serving of chicken and cornbread dressing? Not indulging enough, ladle a little more…

Chicken and Cornbread Dressing

Dressing is a first-rate comfort food. Its origins are ancient —Romans and Arabs created dressing or stuffing to cook with fowl. Depending on where you live, the composition of the dressing can range widely. In the southern states, cornbread dressing reigns supreme —and every family has an anointed dressing-maker supported by generations of witnesses to proclaim her’s as the best in the land. Sadly, for some unknown reason, we have mostly relegated our enjoyment of dressing to Thanksgiving. But trotting it out on a cold winter day makes an indulgent treat for your feasters.

Cornbread dressing Ingredients:

Cornbread (see below for my version)
Three or four slices of toasted bread
Two chicken breasts (shredded)
Two eggs
Chicken broth (I don’t measure but probably about 3 or 4 cups)
Seasonings (kosher salt, black pepper, sage, thyme, and anything else you typically use to season poultry)

Make the Cornbread

Ingredients:

1 and 1/3 cup of cornmeal
1 and 1/3 cup of bread flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
Kosher salt (a pinch or two, about a teaspoon)
3/4 teaspoon of baking soda
4 tablespoons of unsalted butter
3 large eggs (beaten)
1 cup of buttermilk
1/2 cup of milk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Add 1 tablespoon of butter to an iron skillet and place in oven to heat.

Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter and allow to cool.

Mix all of the dry ingredients together. Whisk the eggs, buttermilk and milk together and pour into the dry ingredients. Stir just enough to incorporate everything (batter should be lumpy). Mix in the three tablespoons of melted butter.

Pour batter into the skillet making sure to scrape all of the batter from the bowl.

Bake the cornbread until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean (about 25 to 30 minutes).

Allow the cornbread to cool (can be done a day or two ahead of time, and many folks think it is best to do so).

Meanwhile, sauté an onion (diced), two stalks of celery (diced), and two or three cloves of garlic (minced) in butter until the vegetables are soft.

Crumble the cornbread and toasted bread into a large mixing bowl. Mix the sautéed vegetables and shredded chicken with the crumbled bread. Add your seasonings (start with a conservative amount here as you can adjust later). Mix everything together very well with your hands.

Add chicken broth a little at a time to moisten all of the ingredients. The mixture should be thick and a bit soupy.

Now taste the mixture to make sure you like the seasoning. Make whatever seasoning adjustments you desire —note the dressing will taste just as the mixture does at this point.

With the seasonings adjusted, stir in the eggs.

Pour the dressing into a greased casserole pan (about 9 X 13), and bake for about 45 minutes or until it is set.

Rosemary and Sage Infused Gravy

Ingredients:
Two tablespoons of butter
One tablespoon of olive oil
Three tablespoons of all purpose flour
Chicken broth (about one and a half cups)
Two or three fresh sage leaves
One or two fresh sprigs of rosemary
Cream or milk (about a quarter cup)
Kosher salt
Fresh ground black pepper

Heat the butter and olive oil in a medium size sauce pan until the butter begins to sizzle. Add the flour and whisk to incorporate. Constantly stirring, allow the flour to cook for a few minutes and brown just a bit (three or four minutes).

Add broth a little at a time whisking and allowing the gravy to come to a simmer. Note the gravy will thicken as it simmers and you can add more broth if you think it is too thick. Add the sage and rosemary and allow the gravy to simmer for about twenty minutes, stirring often.

Strain the gravy to remove the herbs. Return the gravy to the sauce pan, add the cream or milk and season with salt and pepper to taste.

As winter passes, ladle a little indulgent comfort, my friend.

This step is a doozy…

February 15, 2015 by Convivial Boar Leave a Comment

young duck hunters ready for adventure

Alas, another duck season has quacked out, and “no, I did not hunt enough days or kill enough ducks.”

Thank you for asking.

And as we step out of this season, my mind turns to end-of-season poppers and a popping good story about one hunter’s bold step…

Late one season, when the ducks were scarce (that narrows it down), I met up with a small, convivial hunting party for a voyage to a hole (for the unaware, hole is lingo for the spot from which we hunt ducks) off the beaten path, known as “the Little Buck Brush.” You are intrigued already, I can tell.

The path to the Little Buck Brush, naturally, passes through the Big Buck Brush —(the naming committee suffered an apparent creative lapse), which is a delightfully muddy marsh that fills with water during the rainy season. Crossing the Big Buck Bush can only be accomplished by wading along a narrow, unmarked, meandering path through boot-bogging mud, waist-high water, and a series of beaver dams—all during the cold, dark hours before daylight. Anybody can take the easy ducks, but the true flavor comes from the adventure.

Lucky for us (and most certainly, this story), our party had an experienced guide to help us navigate —let’s call him Boppy. As we waded, breaking a thin sheet of surface ice with each step, Boppy explained with great precision our plan of navigation — every turn, obstacle and landmark. Our confidence was palpable.

About two-thirds of the way across, Boppy stopped, dramatically turned to his followers and pronounced, “this next step is a doozy. You just have to take a big step to clear the beaver run. I will show you.” Then, he boldly turned and lunged forward with the word, “see-ee-ee” trailing behind him.

Splash!

The only thing left floating was his hat. Then in a sudden burst, he popped out of the frigid water and appeared to be screaming —only he emitted no sound.

Once he dried off and stomped around a bit to keep warm, he dumped the water out of his gun (seemed like five gallons). After a few minutes, he got his bearings and realized that he had used the wrong beaver dam as the reference point for the crossing. We made it to the Little Buck Brush and enjoyed a successful hunt—albeit, particularly cold for our fearless leader, who bravely stuck it out for most of the hunt.

He may have been wrong about the path, but he was certainly right about the step —it was a doozy! To this day, when I stuff a pepper to assemble a duck (or pheasant) popper, I try to capture his sense of shock as he popped out of the water that frozen morning.

duck poppers on the grill

Duck (or Pheasant) Poppers

Cut the duck (or pheasant) into thin strips, and marinate —I like to use olive oil, fresh herbs, white-wine vinegar (for pheasant), red-wine vinegar (for ducks), onion wedges, garlic cloves and citrus. If you have the time, allowing the strips to marinate overnight is ideal, but as little as two hours adds powerful flavor. About thirty minutes before you plan to assemble the poppers, remove the strips from the marinade and dry excess liquid. Season the strips (I typically use kosher salt, fresh ground black pepper, cumin, onion powder, garlic powder, and maybe a bit of cayenne pepper).

Most often poppers are made with jalapeño peppers cut in half, but I like to mix it up and will sometimes use strips of bell peppers or other small variety peppers. No matter what pepper you are using, wash them and remove the seeds and veins.

For the stuffing, I like to use a combination of cheeses (some of my favorites are cream cheese, goat cheese, ricotta, parmesan, and gruyere). From time to time, I also like to add a little spice to the cheese mixture with a creole seasoning or red pepper flakes.

Fill the pepper cavity with the cheese mixture. Then wrap each pepper with a marinated strip of the duck or pheasant. Lastly, (and perhaps, most importantly) wrap the popper with bacon (I like a smoked bacon —like applewood) and secure everything with a small skewer or toothpick.

Grill the poppers over medium direct heat, turning to make sure all sides cook evenly, until the bacon is browned (usually between five and ten minutes). Place the poppers in a foil pan and add a sauce of your preference to provide a glaze —I like orange marmalade because the sweetness balances the spice of the pepper and seasonings. Place the pan back on the grill to allow the glaze to coat the poppers.

Serve as a doozy of an appetizer.

Step boldly, my friend.

It’s all about the balls…

January 31, 2015 by Convivial Boar Leave a Comment

bacon-wrapped, fowl meatballs glazed in cranberry chutney served with cheesy mashed potatoes

Time to celebrate football and food —that’s right, it’s Super Bowl weekend! And this year all of the talk is about the balls—must be rather deflating for the superstar players to be upstaged by a couple pounds of air.

Nevertheless, you know the story: the talking television heads are crying foul over the Patriots’ deflated balls. Apparently, deflation is contagious as I found myself less than inspired for this year’s Super Bowl. Luckily, the Daughter-of-Boar rallied my spirits and insisted that we create and eat —timeless remedy for deflation and many other ailments.

Embracing the spirit of this year’s Super Bowl, let’s celebrate the balls —fowl meatballs!

Now, let me say the idea of the fowl meatballs was not solely inspired by the cheesy pun (foul and fowl), for the Boar (like nearly everyone else this time of year) is working hard to lose a few extra pounds —but not so much as to lose my convivial image. Of course, in keeping with my convivial nature I wrapped the meatballs in bacon —healthy eating is certainly enhanced by a crispy layer of pleasure. Similarly, hitting the gym isn’t so bad if you stick to the steam room and hot tub —don’t bet against me this year, my friend, I may keep this up through the spring.

Bacon-Wrapped, Fowl Meatballs Glazed in Spicy Cranberry Chutney

Ingredients:

Ground turkey and chicken breast (I used about a pound of chicken and half pound of turkey because that was what was available at the store)
Red bell pepper (about half, diced finely)
Sweet onion (about half, diced finely)
Garlic (four to six cloves, diced finely)
Panko garlic and parmesan bread crumbs (half cup)
Eggs (two, beaten)
Oil (I used about two tablespoons of avocado oil)
Fresh sage (chopped finely)
Italian parsley (chopped finely)
Fresh thyme leaves
Kosher salt
Fresh black pepper
Chili powder (about two tablespoons)
Applewood bacon (slices cut in half)

Directions:

Mix everything together by hand making sure to incorporate all of the ingredients. Then shape into balls (about the size of a golf ball). Wrap each ball with a half slice of bacon using a toothpick or small skewer to secure.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Add enough oil to cover the bottom of a sauté pan and heat to medium-high. Working in batches brown the meatballs (mostly the bacon). Reserve the droppings in the sauté pan for the sauce. Place the browned meatballs on a baking sheet and bake until done through (about forty minutes).

fowl meatballs browning

While the meatballs are cooking, make the Cranberry Chutney Glaze:

Ingredients:

Prepared cranberry chutney (I wanted to use fresh cranberries, but alas none were available at the market —even for ready money. Name that movie reference and receive accolades from the Boar).
Chicken broth
Red pepper flakes
Ground cloves
Ground ginger
Citrus zest (I used a clementine)

Directions:

Add the prepared cranberry chutney to the sauté pan used for browning the meatballs (you may want to remove some of the grease and droppings first, but keep enough to help flavor the sauce). Heat over medium. Add enough chicken broth to thin the chutney and whisk it together to incorporate. Season with the red pepper flakes (I used about a tablespoon, but if you like it spicy add more), ground cloves, ground ginger and the citrus zest.

Bring the sauce to a low simmer and allow it to reduce to desired thickness. I simmered my sauce for about thirty minutes.

Remove the meatballs from the oven. Carefully remove the toothpicks and add the meatballs to the cranberry glaze rolling each several times to fully coat the meatballs.

I served the glazed meatballs with cheesy mashed potatoes and spooned additional glaze on top.

omelet featuring diced fowl meatball

Morning After Omelet

Alas! I ended up with more meatballs than would fit in my sauté pan (yet another Champagne problem, my friend–anybody keeping count of these?). I left the extra meatballs unglazed and the next morning I diced them as a featured omelet ingredient.

diced fowl meatball ready for omelet

Even if the game is a little flat this season, embrace the power of creating and eating.

Rally against deflation, my friend.

The Boar has a new pan…

January 2, 2015 by Convivial Boar 3 Comments

venison and pheasant breakfast taco discada

Take three deep breaths, Christmas is over —and all that remains now is for the shops to peddle the unwanted trinkets of the season (before assaulting us with them again in a few short months) and for us to take store of our Christmas loot! On that note, the Boar has a new pan!

You know what this means (and if you don’t click here, here, here, and here to see what happened when the Boar acquired a paella pan). The new pan is a Blue Moon Disk manufactured in Little Rock, Arkansas and gifted to the Boar by a rather convivial accountant —rare sighting, I know (perhaps we can get some license plates like the ones for the ivory-billed woodpecker).

Turns out this gift was not just a pan but an education, as well. The pan is made from a reclaimed (anesthetic word for “used”) plow disk —that’s right an implement of husbandry (weird word for “farming”) pulling double-duty, helping to grow and cook the food (from the garden to the frying pan). Now, that’s a pretty literal application of the farm-to-table trend. The conversion involves filling in and welding the hole (or holes) in the center of the pan and adding handles (as an added bonus Blue Moon’s version welds horseshoes on for handles).

disks on a plow

The resulting pan is similar to a wok, for it is conical shaped with a small circular flat area in the middle. But the sides are not as steep as a typical wok, and the metal is much thicker.

Cooking in this fashion is known as “discada” (a Spanish word meaning “to cook in an agricultural disk or disco” —boy they stuffed a lot into that word). The disks are popular in Mexico for preparing street fare (meaning “the good stuff absent any pretense –not to mention tables, chairs, silverware, plates…”).

The disk works perfectly on a propane gas cooker but can also be used on a grill or stove (but why take something like this indoors?). Typical preparations involve sautéing ingredients in the center of the pan and then moving them to the outer areas of the pan to stay warm. Popular ingredients include, shrimp, strips of meat, sausage, sliced onions, peppers, squash, zucchini, potatoes, corn and fruits.

Boar in action with new pan

The key is to have all of your ingredients prepped and ready to cook when you start cooking so that you can layer them onto the pan in your desired order —dazzling your feasters with the tantalizing sizzle and aromas (as soon as the first potato began sautéing on my pan, the feasters took notice and started asking “what are you cooking over there?”).

I tried out my new pan with these creations:

venison and pheasant fajitas

Venison and Pheasant Fajitas with Spicy Potatoes

Main Ingredients:

Venison tenderloin cut into strips

Pheasant breasts cut into strips (I cooked the leg quarters also and served as a bonus to the fajitas)

Yukon gold potatoes (cut into small wedges)

Onion (sliced thinly)

Bell pepper (sliced into strips)

Flour tortillas

I marinated the venison and pheasant in a dark beer for about two hours before cooking. About thirty minutes before cooking, I removed the meat from the marinade and seasoned it generously with kosher salt, black pepper, and ground chipotle pepper. I then seasoned the potato wedges the same as the meat.

I placed the disk on a propane burner (fish cooker) and adjusted the flame to medium. I added olive oil to the center of the pan allowing it to heat until shimmering. I sautéd the potatoes with fresh rosemary. Once the potatoes had a nice brown crust, I moved them up the sides of the pan away from the center to continue cooking.

Next, I added the pheasant legs and browned them in the center of the disk (with fresh thyme). Once they were brown, I moved them away from the center and added the pheasant strips and then the venison strips. As they browned, I moved them to the outer area of the pan and added the onions and peppers.

Lastly, I covered the pan with flour tortillas allowing them to warm from the steam of the meats and vegetables on the disk.

The fajitas can be served straight from the pan.

Breakfast Taco Discada

The next morning (really early afternoon, but who can keep such things straight this time of year), I created breakfast tacos on the disk.

Main Ingredients:

Potatoes (diced)

Diced meat (I made use of the leftover venison and pheasant, but sausage, bacon, ham, or steak will work fine)

Eggs

Flour Tortillas (my preference for this dish is corn tortillas, but my feasters lobbied for flour).

Again, I started the cooking by adding a small amount of olive oil in the center of the disk. Once the oil was heated, I sautéed the potatoes until brown and crispy and moved them to the outer edge of the pan. Next, I quickly sautéed the venison and pheasant (just to crisp it a bit and warm it up as it was already cooked) and moved it to the outer edge of the pan.

I mixed the eggs with milk, pepper, salt and a dash of cumin (basic scrambled egg preparation with a little added seasoning). I added about a tablespoon of butter to the center of the disk and allowed it to sizzle. Then I poured the egg mixture into the center of the pan. Once the egg mixture began to set, I stirred the eggs and allowed them to set again. Stirred again. Set again. Stirred again. Just as the eggs were ready, I added shredded cheddar cheese and stirred it into the eggs. Lastly, I placed the tortillas over the pan and allowed them steam until soft.

Overall, I found the disk to be efficient, festive, and fun. I’m proud to bestow upon it the much-coveted Convivial Boar stamp of approval. And to my friend, the convivial accountant, I say thank you for opening my eyes to discada and the Blue Moon Disk.

For more information about the Blue Moon Disk click here.

May this year be filled with many new pans, my friend.

the ham of Christmas past…

December 26, 2014 by Convivial Boar Leave a Comment

Black bean and ham soup garnished with avocado, parmesan, and truffle oil

Ahh, the days after Christmas, a time marked with the peace of a well-celebrated holiday, reflections of a year nearly spent, visions of a year about-to-be —and ham aplenty (if such is possible).

Here are a couple of ideas for enjoying the leftover holiday ham.

Back bean and ham soup

Don’t throw away that bone! Or if you did already, go steal your neighbor’s. No matter how meticulous you are, meat is left on the ham bone every Christmas. This soup makes use of the ham-bone and saves you from spending more time picking at the bone —or worse wasting good ham! –and don’t forget the sacrifice that a certain convivial creature made to provide that ham!

ham-bone in pot

Ingredients:
Left-over meaty ham-bone (mine this year was a peppered ham)
Black beans (I used a one pound package. The beans need to either soak overnight or follow instructions for fast-soaking)
Olive oil (enough to coat bottom of pot)
One onion (I used yellow, diced)
Garlic (I used about five cloves, diced)
One red bell pepper (diced)
Tomato paste (I used about three tablespoons)
One dark beer (I used a winter lager)
Bay leaves (I used two, and discarded before serving)
Dark chocolate (I used four 70% cocoa morsels)

Coat the bottom of a large, heavy-duty pot (I used the insert from my slow cooker) with olive oil and heat the pot on medium-high. Saute the onion, garlic and red bell pepper until soft (ten to fifteen minutes). Add the tomato paste and stir to incorporate with vegetables —allow the vegetables and tomato paste to brown for another five to ten minutes.

Deglaze the pot with the bottle of dark beer allowing it to come to a boil and cook off the alcohol. This takes five to ten minutes –and presents an excellent opportunity to season yourself with a nice winter lager).

Add the pre-soaked beans to the pot and enough water to cover. Add the bay leaves. Allow beans to come to a boil. Next add the ham-bone to the pot (you may have to trim for it to fit). If needed adjust water level.

Cover the pot and cook for at least four hours (I actually cooked mine for more than twenty hours on low in my slow cooker). When the beans are tender, remove the ham-bone.

Bring the beans back to a boil uncovered (note if using slow cooker, place insert on stove top for this step). Allow the liquid to reduce until it is thick and dark (I allowed mine to reduce for about 30 minutes). Add dark chocolate and allow to simmer a few minutes more to incorporate the chocolate.

diced ham ready for soup

Meanwhile pull all of the meat from the bone (most all of it falls off after that long cooking). Dice the meat into very small pieces.

Once the liquid is reduced to your liking, remove the bay leaves and add the diced ham back to the pot.

Allow to simmer on low for at least another 30 minutes (I let mine sit for a spell longer, presenting another self-seasoning opportunity).

Just before serving, I garnished the soup with grated parmesan cheese, avocado and black truffle oil.

ham, artichoke and cranberry salad on water crackers

Ham, artichoke and cranberry salad

Ingredients:

Ham (diced, I had about six cups)
Red onion (diced, I used one medium sized)
Red bell pepper (diced)
Celery (diced, two stalks)
Marinated artichoke hearts (diced, I used approximately fifteen hearts)
Dried cranberries (diced, I added about a cup)
Zest of an orange
Dijon mustard (about two tablespoons)
Juice from an orange
Honey
Oil (I used a french walnut oil but a good olive oil will also work)

To assemble the salad mix the ham and vegetables together. Whisk the Dijon mustard, orange zest, orange juice, honey and oil together –tasting until you like the flavor (my goal was for a light citrus note followed by the sweetness of the honey). Pour the dressing over the ham and vegetables. Mix everything together well, and then gently fold the dried cranberries into the salad (I’ve found that adding them earlier causes their color to run all over everything else).

Serve the ham salad as sandwiches, with crackers, or as part of a green salad.

Enjoy the peace (and the ham), my friend.

Get to know your butcher…

Let your steak warm a bit…

Start your fire…

Season boldly…

To the grill…

Butter makes everything better…

Let it rest…

Grills matter, but they are not everything

The fuel defines the grill

The shape and size of the grill are important —and should be matched for your particular creation

Most importantly, get to know your grill (or hopefully, grills)

Sparking Anticipation

Glowing Energy

Radiating Romance

Chicken and Roasted Potato Pie

(think chicken pot pie but without all of the vegetables that your kids push aside)

Making the crust:

“Most grillers create dishes of quiet desperation and hang up their tongs with the song still in them.”

“There are a thousand grillers hacking at the branches to every one striking at the root”

“I went to the grill because I wished to create deliberately…”

“If you have created your feasts in the air, your creations need not be lost; that is where they should be. Now put the foundations under them.”

“All good things are wild and free.”

“Our creations are frittered away by detail. Simplify, simplify.”

Chicken Broth

Chicken and Cornbread Dressing

Rosemary and Sage Infused Gravy

Duck (or Pheasant) Poppers

Bacon-Wrapped, Fowl Meatballs Glazed in Spicy Cranberry Chutney

Morning After Omelet

Venison and Pheasant Fajitas with Spicy Potatoes

Breakfast Taco Discada

Back bean and ham soup

Ham, artichoke and cranberry salad

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